BY LIAM FERRIE
SPECIAL TO THE BIR

North Antrim, Ireland -- The Giant’s Causeway, with its unusual rock formations and brand new visitor center, is worth a visit, even if it is only during a brief stop on a round-Ireland coach tour. For those without time constraints there is so much more to savor along this stretch of the north Antrim coast.

This year we decided to extend our annual trek to three days, to allow us to walk the 33 miles of the Causeway Coast Way. In late July, nine of us assembled at the eastern end of Portstewart Strand with a view to reaching Portballintrae, some 12 miles away, by early evening. The weather was kind to us, given the summer that we had experienced to date, and we set off along the coastal path through Portstewart. Walking by the sea is, for me, always a pleasant experience, but this was particularly enjoyable as we looked down on rocky coves, made our way along the promenade, past the harbour, round a headland, and then along the edge of a golf course.

Travel to the start point had eaten into the day and so, by the time we reached Portrush, we were more than ready for lunch. It is easy to understand how the resort was so popular in the years before foreign sun holidays became possible. Indeed, Portrush remains popular, with swimmers and surfers out in force on the West Strand, which is backed by a fine promenade and acres of well-tended grass.

After lunch we walked past the harbor, round Ramore Head and onto the East Strand, more than a mile and a half of sand with rollers breaking in from the north Atlantic. It was equally popular with holidaymakers who were making the most of the fine day. There was no need for a path here. We simply walked along the beach, past the Royal Portrush golf course, which a few weeks earlier had hosted the Irish Open Golf Championship. The visitor to Portrush is quickly reminded of the huge impact golfers associated with the club have made on the world stage.

We continued to make our way along the coast, past the White Rocks with spectacular stacks and arches, past the remains of Dunluce Castle (Don’t pass it unless you have been there before) and into the pretty seaside village of Portballantrae. After a 12-mile walk, the priorities are a shower, a good meal, and a good night’s sleep. Having washed the dust away we ate well and slept well and so were ready for an even longer Day two.

On leaving Portballintrae, rather than walk along Burnfoot Strand, we followed a path through the dunes that eventually paralleled the railway track that had replaced the old Causeway tram track. The path eventually leaves the railway to hug the coast and passes in front of Runkerry House, an impressive sandstone mansion built in the latter half of the 19th century that was converted into luxury apartments a little more than a decade ago. After this we found ourselves walking along cliff tops for the first time but these were modest compared with what we would experience in the afternoon.

We stopped for coffee at the widely-acclaimed Giant’s Causeway Visitor Centre that had opened earlier in the month. Approaching from the west you are beside the center before becoming aware of it, due to the sloping grass roof and the fact that it is partially underground. The Giant’s Causeway, a World Heritage site, is one of Ireland’s most popular tourist attractions and was very busy the day we passed through.

One of our party, a first-time visitor, went down to the Causeway to have a closer look and rejoined us at the top of the Shepherd’s Steps. The rest of us took to the cliff-top path. This is probably not a route for those with severe acrophobia, but there is never any need to venture too close to the cliff edge, although that is often where the view is most dramatic. For the next two hours we were exposed to breathtaking scenery – looking down at the Chimneys, the Amphitheatre, spectacular rock formations, and, eventually, a small, seemingly well-cared-for house with only vague evidence of a pathway down to it. I read later that the Fish House at Port Moon is now used as a bothy for passing kayakers.

We stopped for a snack at Dunseverick Castle, something of a disappointment as an archaeological artifact. A sign warning of a landslide forced us to take to the road and we were unwilling to walk back to the track at Portbraddan lest the tide be in and our way blocked. We eventually rejoined the path half way along White Park Bay and at that stage it was a great relief to put our feet in the sea.

At the end of the bay a bit of scrambling brought us to our destination, the picturesque Ballintoy Harbour. Everyone was again happy with accommodations that night and more than happy with the meal at the Central Wine Bar in Ballycastle.

Our final day was less ambitious as it is just seven miles from Ballintoy Harbour to Ballycastle. The first stop for two of the group was Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, but those without a head for heights or who had crossed it before gave it a miss. At this point we were directed toward a fairly busy road without a footpath for the remainder of the trek. It is a great pity that the coastal path is not continued into Ballycastle.

For much of our walk we were looking out at Rathlin Island and, as we had completed our journey by 12:30 p.m., we decided to spend the afternoon on the island. Unfortunately we lingered too long over the goodbyes to the two who had to dash off and when we arrived for the 1 p.m. sailing it was already full.

Still, it was a very satisfying three days and, for anyone who is into walking, the Causeway Coast Way is a must. “When the sun shines, Ireland is paradise” was the comment from one our party, who had returned from abroad to undertake the walk.
Liam Ferrie and his wife Pauline were the proprietors of the Irish Emigrant before retiring earlier this year. Each summer, they are joined by family and friends for a hill climb or a long walk.